It doesn't look like much, but it is a busy place. Toshio's Teriyaki is in a little building just south of the I-90 overpass at Rainier Avenue South and South Massachusetts Street on one of those little triangular blocks formed by streets hitting Rainier at odd angles.
The building looks like it could have been a drive-in back in the '60s. It also looks like parts have been added on at several different times and a sign at the sharp corner of the lot gives evidence that this was once a barbecue joint. (Locals with more than a few years' standing will remember the space as the old Homestretch restaurant, a place with photos from the horse track decorating the walls.)
It smells like a barbecue joint too, when you walk up to the door. Exhaust fans fill the immediate area with that smoky, delicious teriyaki meat aroma, making a promise that pulls you by the nose right through the door.
The customer area inside is much smaller than you would expect from looking at the restaurant from the outside. There are two, four-seat, Formica-topped tables and seven seats along an L-shaped window counter. The service counter fills one side of the room with the kitchen, in gleaming stainless steel, open to sight behind it. The windows are large, the walls are white and the atmosphere is welcoming.
A sign outside promises "Japanese cuisine." If you have ever been to Japan, then inside you will recognize that the restaurant is as neat and clean as any neighborhood restaurant in Tokyo or Kyoto. One difference is the prayers. Hand-lettered Christian prayers are posted on all the walls, all of them positive and affirming. On the wall above the service counter, where pictures of the offerings greet the customers, another hand-lettered sign fills the open space at the end.
"Prayer - Free" "Living Water - Free" "Smile - Free"
Living water means tap water, as opposed to the bottled kind.
The smiles really are free, and copious. An elegant middle-aged woman shines a dazzling smile at everyone who comes through the door, and continues doing so as she takes their orders. She says something to everyone, and more than half the customers seem to know her and chat as they come in. It is clear that a big part of Toshio's trade is repeat customers. People came and went (takeout was the largest part of the orders we saw) and kept the staff steadily busy, even though it was well after 1 p.m., the time most places are done with their lunch crowd. Even so, the waiting time was negligible.
Customers reflect the diversity of South Seattle. The only noticeable pattern is that few were all dressed up as they came in the Saturday afternoon we were there. Everybody was there-black, white, brown, young, old, reasonably well-turned-out and shabby. Toshio's appeal is universal.
It was not an easy thing to peruse the menu and make a choice. Pictures of the dishes offered begin on the back wall next to the pop machine and then jump above the counter. There are 30 different meals, all with rice and salad except for the soups. There are also seven side orders to choose from, including egg rolls and miso soup, should you be so inclined.
Tor, my 15-year-old son, and I took a while trying to decide. I finally chose teriyaki salmon for $6.59 and he chose the teriyaki chicken and tempura vegetables for $6.39. We also had two egg rolls. With all that and two soft drinks (no booze at Toshio's) I got a few coins back from a $20 bill.
We sat at one of the tables, and when our lunch was served Tor stared at his plate.
"That picture is very misleading," he said, pointing to the wall menu. "It [the picture] looks like a lot less food. I think I am going to need some help with this."
Hey, no problem, that's what fathers are for, right?
My meal was similarly larger than expected. It came with three large salmon fillets, two mounds of rice a little larger than golf balls and a green salad. Luckily, Tor doesn't like salmon. I didn't need any help. Also luckily, he doesn't like mushrooms, so I got a taste of the tempura vegetables, which were excellent.
The egg rolls were very good, the salmon was terrific and Tor polished off the tempura vegetables quickly. He was slowing down, and then ground to a halt in the chicken teriyaki. I was full, too, so I just had a bite. Then I had another bite. Before I really understood what was happening, we no longer needed a doggy bag.
Bring your cash, Toshio's does not accept checks, and if you are after a hamburger or barbecue, go someplace else. All the food is Asian. Among the full meals, the most expensive menu item is the shrimp tempura that goes for $8.19. The cheapest is tempura vegetables, which is just $4.89. Last Saturday the specials were chicken teriyaki and shrimp tempura for $8.19 or pork teriyaki and shrimp tempura for $9.09. The "house special" was curry beef over rice for just $5.25.
Toshio's has good food at good prices, and it seems like a lot of South Seattle already knows it. Now you know it too.
Toshio's, 1706 Rainier Ave. S., is open from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day except Sunday, when the restaurant is closed. You can call ahead for take out, 323-6303.
[[In-content Ad]]
