Most of us in the Pacific Northwest have no idea where most of the Mexican states are. Some of us don't even know that Mexico has states, but patrons of the new El Tajin Mexican restaurant will soon become familiar with the cooking of the state of Vera Cruz - and they are going to like it.
Vera Cruz is Mexico's third most populous state. It lies on the southwest coast of the Gulf of Mexico and, like many Mexican regions, has a distinctive cooking style.
"Every time we wanted to go eat, every [Mexican] restaurant had the same thing," said Luis Martinez. "We wanted the home cooking of Vera Cruz."
Martinez said that most of the Mexican restaurants in this area feature food exclusively from northern Mexico. He said he thought Capitol Hill might be ready for something else.
"We wanted to offer food like in Mexico," Martinez said, "not Tex-Mex." His goal is to show people how Vera Cruz Mexicans eat. "If people want to try something as it is done originally, this is the place to come."
"Tajin" (pronounced tah-heen) means thunder in Totonac, one of the indigenous, pre-Colombian languages of southern Mexico. It is also the name of a pre-Colombian city, now a United Nations heritage site famous for its temple-pyramids, palaces and ancient ballgame courts.
Such is the legacy that Martinez wants to share. Members of the Martinez family are much in evidence at the restaurant: Luis and wife Dyane own and manage the restaurant, Luis' sister Vernice is head of the service staff and inventory, and Mama Martinez is the head chef.
The family is almost a United Nations of its own. Luis and Mama are Mexican, Luis' stepfather is Filipino and Luis' wife is Vietnamese.
"That's why we like diversity," Luis said with a big grin. His home town, Poza Rica, was an oil town until the resource played out. It is just 9 miles from the Tajin archeological site.
The restaurant is bright and spacious, with dark chairs and tables covered with white cloths and glass tops. Martinez strongly suggests everyone try the soups, a specialty of his mother's cooking.
In the space next door - the cantina - is a full bar where patrons may sit on bar stools or at tables. There are Mexican and domestic beers on tap, as well as a variety of can and bottle beers. The cocktail menu is ... uh ... X-rated.
"We thought we would have a little fun with it," Martinez said.
My teenage daughter and I had dinner at El Tajin last Friday. The menu is vast, and we took a longish time to settle on our choices. As we vacillated over the offerings, I kept the drink menu discretely hidden under the dinner menu. I had seen it a few days earlier and, though I know she knows all those words and concepts, sharing them with her would thoroughly embarrass me.
She finally decided on chicken empanadas, a kind of pastry with a choice of fillings, and I chose the "Mexican Flag" beef enchiladas. I don't cook Mexican, but I have certainly eaten a lot of it (with great pleasure) and I noticed that the flavors were unusual, but I can't really describe how.
The chili relleno I had on my first visit was different from others I have had elsewhere; in that dish, the chilis were not battered and the sauce and cheese had a distinct and wonderful flavor of their own. The enchiladas and rellenos were served with rice and beans.
The food is carefully presented on large plates to delight the eye as well as the palate. The cost is easy on the wallet, ranging from combination plates in the low $7 to unusual house specialties at $15. There is even a special meat dish for $35, but it is recommended for at least two people.
This restaurant is well worth a visit both for the excellent food and welcoming atmosphere. I foresee it becoming a neighborhood favorite.
El Tajin, 614 Broadway East, between East Mercer and East Roy streets, is open for dining from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. The lounge is open from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily.
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