Gusts of wind, rain alternating with sunshine and still, chilly nights herald the glorious turmoil called Spring. Changeable weather during this season offers a reason to enjoy bowls of steaming, aromatic soups. The soups of Mexico are perfect now because they employ sweet, delicate vegetables fresh from the marketplace.
Elton Hyndman, head chef of La Cocina at El Centro de la Raza on Beacon Hill graciously took time from his busy day to share some tips for creating great Mexican soups. La Cocina (the Kitchen) is a sparkling, brightly painted lunchroom serving El Centro's Child Care Center, a seniors program and the Latino Hot Meal program. The latter is open to all free of charge.
Prior to settling down to cook professionally, Hyndman had his heart set upon an around-the-country road trip after graduation in order to get his first real look at his adopted land.
Setting out in a 1976 El Camino loaded with all the accoutrements of life-on-the-road, Hyndman reached Albuquerque, N.M. before the El Camino gave out.
He had $20 to his name. His ultimate destination was Seattle. But Seattle had to wait.
"I was very fortunate. I found a sous chef position the second day I was there," said Hyndman.
This good fortune opened a new vein in his cooking repertoir, that of Mexico, New Mexico and the Southwest. He became enamored with what he calls the "clean, sharp, fresh flavors" used in Mexican and southwest cookery.
"The key to soups, and to all Mexican foods, is the combination, the marriage of smoky flavors with cilantro, fresh oregano, minced onion, pickled jalapeno and lime," asserted Hyndman.
He believes that fresh garnishes or salsas are a must in bringing out the flavors of a good, homemade soup. Such combinations include "fresh, minced cilantro, stems and all, sliced red radish and chopped onion," particularly with the Caldo de Res.
"Mexican food gives you the four major (components) of flavor: sweet, sour, salty and bitter," he enthused.
His two years at El Centro have generated a following of satisfied members of the 'clean plate' club. So called because they eat their lunch with gusto, many of the seniors who participate in the daily, 11 a.m. lunch actually line up to show Hyndman just how much they enjoyed his handiwork.
Caldo de Res (Beef Soup)
3 pounds meaty beef bones
3 medium tomatoes, quartered
2 cloves garlic, peeled and bruised (2 segments)
Place bones, tomatoes and garlic cloves into a roasting dish or pan, cover and roast at 325 degrees F for about 45 minutes or until meat is tender. Remove cover, continue to roast until meat begins to fall from the bone and juices begin to thicken (15-20 minutes more). Remove from oven. Set aside.
3 ears of fresh corn on the cob (frozen, thawed if fresh is not available)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and bruised
2 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
4 chiles anchos (sold dried in cellophane bags in Mexican markets)
Meanwhile roast corn over an open flame or grill, turning to toast the kernels. Otherwise toast ears in the oven, uncovered on a sheet until some kernels are lightly browned. Remove ears from heat, set aside to cool. When cooled, cut ears into segments of 1 to 2 inches long. Reserve.
Heat oil in a deep, heavy cooking pot or Dutch oven; when oil sizzles add onion and cook about 5 minutes or until translucent. Add garlic and stir but do not brown.
Add chopped tomatoes and continue to cook on low heat.
Wearing rubber gloves remove stems from dried chiles; cut each chile open and remove seeds and dried membranes (pith); discard. Tear chiles into small pieces and add pieces to a small Pyrex cup or bowl. Immerse with enough hot water to soften and cover with foil, plastic wrap or a saucer to reserve heat. Set aside.
Remove roasted meat to a platter. Skim fat from the surface of the cooking juices using a large spoon as needed; discard fat and pour juices into cooked onion mixture.
Deglaze roasting pan by placing it over low heat and adding 2 to 3 tablespoons of water (red or white wine or apple juice as preferred). Stir slowly to remove any bits of cooked material. When liquid reduces add this to the onion mixture as well.
When chiles are soft add them and cooked onion mixture to the work bowl of a food processor; whirl to puree. Otherwise whirl in a blender with sufficient liquid to carry vegetable pieces, crush with a mortar and pestle or push through a food mill.
Return this mixture to the large pot or Dutch oven and add about 2 quarts of cold water. Stir, add the meat and bones; bring to a rapid near-boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. While broth simmers prepare and add the following:
1/2 head green cabbage, cut into coarse strips
1 1/2 pounds potatoes (scrubbed, red potatoes with skin on are nice)
2 or 3 medium zucchini, cut into rounds, chunks or sticks
Toasted corn (above)
Serve hot with a side dish of lemon or lime wedges, sliced red radishes and chopped onions. Makes 8-10 servings.
Sopa de Tortilla (Tortilla Soup)
1 chicken fryer about 4 pounds
7 cups water
2 large onions, cut into 6 pieces each
3 large tomatoes, cut into chunks
1 teaspoon crushed, dried hot red pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 pint (2 cups) whipping cream
1 bunch fresh cilantro sprigs, trimmed of long stems
1 ripe avocado, peeled and cut into thin wedges sprinkled with lemon juice
Rinse chicken in cool water and trim excess fat. Place chicken whole into a deep pan (6 to 8 quarts) or a large Dutch oven. Add water and onions. Cover and bring to a near boil; remove lid and skim surface of broth. Replace lid, lower heat and simmer for about 1 hour or until meat separates from bones.
Remove from heat; place chicken on a platter and allow to cool. Meanwhile return broth to heat and simmer until liquid is reduced to about 4 cups. Remove from heat and cool broth by placing cooking pot into a large bowl or pan of ice water. Stir broth until temperature reaches about 100 degrees F. Remove cooked onions with a slotted spoon and set them aside. Strain broth into a large bowl to clear.
Meanwhile wipe cooking pot of extraneous fat or meat particles with a paper towel. Fat on the surface of broth can now be removed and discarded by using a fat separator or a vacuum bulb as desired. Reserve broth.
Discard skin, gristle and bones from cooled chicken; shred meat with fingers and set aside. Add reserved onions with tomato chunks, red pepper flakes and cumin to cleaned cooking pot. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring until tomatoes soften. Now drop in shredded chicken, broth and cream, stirring gently while bringing to a near boil. Reduce heat and serve immediately, garnishing each bowl with tortilla strips and cilantro sprigs. Makes about 6 servings.
Tortilla Strips
8 to 10 corn or flour tortillas, layered in a stack
cut stacked tortillas into 1/4 to 1/2-inch wide strips
Heat vegetable oil about 1-inch deep in a 3-4 quart pan or wok until almost smoky. Using long-handled tongs add about a handful of strips to the oil at a time, and cook while stirring for about 1 minute or until crisp. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. Salt. Repeat process with next handful until all strips are cooked.[[In-content Ad]]
