How to Cook a Wolf. Wait. How to Cook a Wolf? Yes, that's right - and you'd be crazy not to see what all the excitement is about. Ethan Stowell, owner of Union Restaurant and Tavolata, has once again proven his brilliance with Italian food. Even Food and Wine Magazine agrees. The magazine is honoring him with its highest award of Best New Chef. Needless to say, Stowell, along with his newest restaurant, is having an extremely rewarding year.How to Cook a Wolf shares its name with a highly-regarded food novella by M. F. K. Fisher. Stowell chose the name because of his mother. "My mother loves Fisher's books and has always pushed to include them somehow in my restaurants." And once again, it seems that mother knows best. This quirky name most likely played a big part in creating the buzz around the restaurant. Many critics have tried to nail down the significance between How to Cook a Wolf's food and the book, which was written with regard to World War II and how to ration food in the toughest of times. It offers practical, simple recipes for how to survive on the most meager of budgets.Most admirers assume the relationship is found in the simplicity of Stowell's dishes, and the uncomplicated décor of the restaurant. Stowell has heard it all, and has been asked countless times about the connection. "I think it's great if people find a correlation between my food and the book. It was not planned, but all the better," he said.Tucked in the corner of Queen Anne Ave. and Boston St., How to Cook a Wolf is easy to overlook. The restaurant is very small; only seating about 25-30, and aside from its name on the front door, the space is unassuming. However, once seated inside, it's hard not to be smitten. The wood, stone and copper décor provide a warm and cozy organic atmosphere. And though it is close quarters, the experience feels intimate and wonderful. In all forms, How to Cook a Wolf is uncomplicated and straightforward.The menu features about 20 affordable small plates, with the most expensive dish, the duck salad accompanied with beets and mandarins, set at $16. In line with the simplicity of the restaurant, all the selections have three main ingredients at the most. No flair or hidden agendas here, just well made food. The menu does change seasonally, and can be viewed anytime on at www.howtocookawolf.com. And, if you need help choosing a wine to pair with your meal, Stowell's wife, Angela, is your go-to expert. She does all the wine for the restaurant, and as Stowell puts it, "is a wine extraordinaire." Like the restaurant, the wine list is small and affordable, boasting Italian bottles, and local Washington favorites, among other regions.So with three top Seattle restaurants, does Stowell ever have time to cook at home? Yes, in fact he does, and when asked what he likes to cook, with a wide grin he replied, "Mostly Italian."Abbondanza!Stowell isn't kidding when he says he likes to cook Italian. Here is one of Stowell's favorites that he serves at Union.Papardelle Pasta with Walnut Pesto and Parmigiano Reggiano Ingredients:1 lbs fresh Papardelle1 1/2 lbs Parmigiano ReggianoFor the Pesto:2 cups toasted walnuts2 cloves garlic1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil1 cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano2 bunches Italian parsley washed, dried and finely chopped1 1/2 cup waterSalt and pepperTo make the Pesto:Place the walnuts, garlic, grated cheese and olive oil in the bowl of a Cuisinart. Puree until smooth, add water and mix through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To make the Pasta:Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the papardelle and cook until al dente, about 3-4 minutes. Drain pasta and then return to the pan. Toss the pasta in the sauce, add chopped parsley and make sure all the noodles are coated evenly. Check and adjust seasoning.Final Presentation:Divide the pasta between four warm pasta bowls, grate fresh parmigiano reggiano over top and serve while hot.[[In-content Ad]]
