Approaching old San Juan by sea, time regresses about 500 years. Weather worn towers (garitas) top the seemingly endless brownish walls dominating the horizon. Looming over the port city, the ancient battlements stand guard. The somewhat crumbly appearance deceives the eye, as they seem in fact quite solid.
San Juan, Puerto Rico is the first of many old fort cities that once dotted the Caribbean and protected residents from treasure-thirsty pirates and invading armies. We had arrived here by sea aboard a Holland America cruise ship Westerdam. As our ship entered the harbor pirates did not suddenly appear and cannons did not fire at our ship - instead, multitudes of tourists shot the historic fort with their cameras.
Christopher Columbus discovered Puerto Rico in 1493, but never returned. His lieutenant, Ponce de Leon, returned in 1508 to claim the island and by 1521 began building forts and walls. Construction of Castillo San Felipe del Morro began in 1539 by the Spaniards to protect their beloved treasure ships. El Morro served to guard the entrance to the bay. Residents added new structures for the next 400 years. The original lighthouse was added on top the castle in 1843. The US military built the current lighthouse in 1908. After a city sacking and burning attack from the land side by the Dutch in 1625, the Spaniards surrounded the city with massive 18-foot thick walls. It took 48 years to wall the city in, with construction starting in 1634.
After the attack on the land side of the city, the Spaniards started building a small fort on Cristobal hill in 1634. Major construction over the next 150 years resulted in the monstrous Castillo San Cristobal, once far larger than it is today. In 1897 the local government dynamited much of the wall and about a third of the castle to allow the city to expand. Remnants of the formidable wall that once surrounded the city remain visible in much of old San Juan. Heading up the hill from the cruise ship dock, vivid blue, orange, yellow and other bright colors give buildings a unique and pleasing look. Bright blue brick roads create a sharp contrast to the drab weather-beaten stone walls of the hilltop fort.
Cruise ship passengers can easily walk from the cruise ship dock to San Cristobal. Green lawn lizards at the fort's entrance greet visitors with beady eyes. These iguanas placidly pose for pictures as if they were pets. Not native to the area, the park department allows them to stay for the free lawn mowing service they provide. Fantastic ocean views await tourists after they walk through a thick tunnel. Cannon balls stacked high on the upper level remind everyone of a more violent past. A refreshing sea breeze through the garita feels like nature's air conditioning.
From San Cristobal tourists can casually walk to El Morro in about half an hour. On a hot muggy day tourists can catch a free trolley that goes between the forts every few minutes. A hop-on hop-off tour bus that travels throughout old San Juan is another great option for tourists on a mission to see as much of the city as possible. More active people can rent bright yellow bikes as their means of travel. Horse and buggy rides are available too, but only on some streets. See both forts for one price, or just one for a little bit less.
Walking up the long approach to El Morro, the notable absence of iguanas leaves much longer grass. Once inside, visitors pass through a long hall of many doorways, painted yellow and white. A narrow stairway alongside a long steep ramp to a pavilion by the sea leads to a courtyard with cannons and vast ocean views. Check out the ancient cannon, or peek over the walls or through the garita to the wild surf crashing on the rocks below.
Both forts served the United States through both World Wars, with bunkers and artillery added during World War II. Now both castles invite tourists to defend the city with dollars to help keep the economy viable rather than soldiers with weapons repelling the many enemies who threatened the city throughout the centuries. Retired from active use in 1961, the castles fell under the protection of the National Park Service and became World Heritage Sites in 1983. El Morro has a cathedral and an old cemetery with the remains of Ponce de Leon.
It's a pretty easy walk through town back down the hill toward the cruise ship docks. A stroll through the blue brick streets of town reveals colonial architecture, brightly colored buildings, and cats sleeping in fanciful doorways. The blue cobblestones, called adoquin, are a remnant of Spain of the 1800s. Cast from furnace slag brought over from Spain as ship's ballast, they make for unique and beautiful streets. Shades of blue vary from periwinkle to indigo. Modern cars have some difficulty maneuvering on streets intended for horse and buggy use. Cars often ride over the curb while turning corners.
Everywhere you look you'll find something new to see and photograph. Ornate railings and statues decorate overhanging balconies. Potted plants high on verandas and low in window boxes or on the street add color and life. Quaint shops in colorful buildings offer a variety of things for sale. The unique blue brick roads themselves are a beautiful sight of history that could be called art. Turn a corner and find ruins of the old wall or castles. Along the route from the castle back to the cruise dock an old piece of wall was covered in pigeons. We strolled through a section of town where many buildings had doors of iron bars. The cats passed through at will, unlike the ones sleeping in front of solid doors. One group of people walked by, herding a rather large black cat that must have strayed too far from home.
San Juan is a major port for cruise ships and was a huge surprise for us. Our day's visit revealed a history of the Caribbean that we would have never experienced had it not been on the cruise ship's port of call. Visitors to San Juan who want a longer stay, several airlines provide service to the city by the sea. Hotels are available in both the old and new sections of the city.
Holland America has several cruise ships that visit San Juan Puerto Rico. Seven day cruises are among the most affordable vacations for travelers on a tight budget. For more information visit www.hollandamerica.com
John & Lois Beath are travel writers based in Monroe Washington.[[In-content Ad]]
