Foods of the Moslem world are as broad in variety and complexity as are the communities they come from. People of the Islamic faith live not only in Middle Eastern countries such as Saudi Arabia and Jordan but in Malaysia, the Philippines, South America and the United States among many others.
Their cookery reflects the societies in which they live while adhering to the dietary tenets of Islam. Somalis living in Seattle are just one group who can offer us the tastes of an ancient cuisine formed by the crossroads of many peoples.
Situated on the eastern coast of Africa approximately mid-way from north to south Somalia boasts a cuisine influenced by a thousand years of Arabian influence. Dress, customs, language and food as well as religious faith were influenced by Arab spice merchants and slave traders.
Islamic dietary law states that, like Jewish dietary law, the consumption of pork is forbidden. However, beef, lamb, goat and chicken are halal or permitted so long as these animals have been humanely slaughtered. Fish are permitted because they are cold-blooded creatures from bodies of water.
The general term for meat in Somali, whether it be beef, goat, lamb or chicken is hillib while the term for rice is brees. A combination beloved the world over, meat and rice is prepared Somali-style with a mix of aromatic herbs and spices to create a memorable dish. The meat is commonly boiled in water to make a broth; the broth, seasoned with carrots and onions is poured off, skimmed of fat and served as a light soup dotted with minced cilantro or parsley.
Animal fats are not favored in the Moslem diet so this method removes as much fat as possible. The cooked meat is then lightly fried in a very small bit of butter or vegetable oil to form a crisp exterior. Chicken, however is not boiled first but roasted in the oven; again extraneous fat is drained away.
Portuguese mariners settled briefly in Somalia in the 1600s, dealing in spice and slaves. The 1800s saw British settlers enter northern Somalia while Italians settled in the south. Both colonial powers influenced Somali society; in particular Italian food and language became part of daily life. Even today spaghetti with tomato sauce and meatballs is a favorite family dish.
The kindly family who owns and operates King Fried Chicken and Gyros on Martin Luther King Jr. Way South in Seattle offered much information about Somalia on a couple of recent rainy afternoons. I'd stopped in at the suggestion of a neighbor.
The proprietors told me that 1960 brought independence to the former colonies of Britain and Italy; later a tiny, northern coastal area occupied by French colonists separated to become Djibouti in 1977. While English is more and more commonly spoken Italian is now spoken mainly by people past middle age. Somali, Swahili and Ugandanese are the most common tongues; as well one must be sufficiently proficient in Arabic to follow the Koran.
Entering the small restaurant an attractive rice preparation caught my eye. Intrigued by the evident and liberal use of spices I was offered a tiny sample of a heady blend of cardamon, cinnamon, cloves, coriander and cumin.
This quintet of lively seasonings immediately conjured visions of ancient camel caravans swaying across arid lands bearing precious cargo for the tables of kings. Today these spices are used by cooks the world around, from fancy eateries to home kitchens. Seattle's Somali community employs these gems with a practiced hand.
Early Egyptians first used cardamom, also spelled cardamon; later it was used in ancient Greece and Rome. Cardamon is only surpassed in price by saffron and vanilla. Grown in India, Sri Lanka and Mexico cardamon is part of the ginger family. Look for cardamon in green pods. When crushed the pods reveal tiny black seeds; crush the pods just before use since seed flavor is easily lost. As with most seeds and nuts cardamon is more flavorful after a gentle toasting in a dry skillet. Cardamon seeds are a popular flavoring added to the strong coffees of the Middle East and Africa and is also enjoyed in hot tea.
Cinnamon comes from the bark of an evergreen laurel tree. Peeled from tiny, thin branches, cinnamon, like its close relative cassia is rolled in very thin sheets into 'quills' to dry in the sun. These quills are what we know as 'cinnamon sticks'. Cassia is thicker, slightly more coarse and not quite as flavorful as cinnamon. The less expensive cassia is often substituted for cinnamon. Sri Lanka is a major source of both.
The name 'clove' echoes its Latin origin, clavus, which means nail because of its shape. Originating in the Moluccan Islands of Southeast Asia cloves are the dried buds of the flowering evergreen clove. The Moluccan Islands are historically known as the "Spice Islands." Cloves were the cause of eighteenth-century international intrigue when the French were able to spirit a few clove trees out of Molucca to establish a rival clove industry on the island of Mauritius in 1770. Until that time clove cultivation had been dominated by the Dutch who themselves had earlier driven Portuguese growers from Molucca in 1605.
Coriander, another ancient herb is an annual, meaning that it must be planted each year and is a member of the carrot family. The dried seeds impart a slight scent of orange peel, while in fresh form the bright green, lacey leaves are called by their Spanish name, 'cilantro'. Native to the Mediterranean, the Middle East and Asia, coriander seeds should be lightly toasted before being ground. Cilantro is also popular in Mexican cookery.
Finally the cumin plant, also of Asian origin but long grown in India, the Mediterranean region, Egypt, the Arabian Peninsula and Mexico rounds out this flavorful quintet of spices frequently employed in Somali cookery. Similar in appearance to caraway seeds cumin seeds taste best when lightly pan toasted before being ground just prior to use.
Hillib and brees (meat and rice)
1 fresh fryer or roaster chicken, 2 1/2 to 3 pounds, trimmed of loose fat and any red organs from the body cavity; rinse and pat dry. Place breast side down in a roasting dish or pan; refrigerate until ready to roast. Meanwhile prepare spices and preheat oven to 375 degrees F (350 degrees F for convection ovens).
For Seeds and Spices, prepare 2 batches of the seed and spice mixture and reserve the second batch for the rice recipe which follows chicken roasting instructions.
Remove seeds from pods (if present), discard pods, lightly toast seeds in a dry pan until fragrant
12 or so green cardamom pods, crushed to remove seeds
2 cinnamon sticks, each broken into halves (no need to toast)
2 teaspoons whole cloves (no need to toast)
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed (no need to toast)
Combine above seasonings in a mortar and grind thoroughly with a pestle; alternatively crush with a rolling pin between 2 large sheets of waxed paper or grind in a grinder dedicated to spices only (blender or food processor not recommended)
2 to 3 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and crushed, minced and added to spice mixture in mortar
1. When above spices and garlic are well ground, spread mixture over exterior of chicken, including legs and wings, saving some to spread in body cavity.
2. Cover chicken and roast for 50 minutes; then reduce temperature by 25 degrees F and continue to roast (about 30 minutes more or until a meat thermometer inserted into thickest part of chicken reads 180 degrees F).
3. Remove lid or cover during final 15 to 20 minutes of roasting to allow skin to crisp; baste with pan juice as desired.
4. Remove from oven and cool for 15 minutes. (Note: Refrigerate any meat after 30 minutes if not ready to serve.)
5. Pour cooking juices from pan into a heat-proof bowl or cup; remove and discard fat. Reserve cooking juice.
For the rice:
2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large yellow or white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 batch of prepared seed-spice mixture (see above preparation)
1 red bell pepper, stem, seeds and pith removed, flesh coarsely chopped
3 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 1/2 cups medium or long grain rice, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup sultanas (also called 'golden raisins')
3 cups chicken broth (may include broth from chicken, homemade or canned)
1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt or to taste (Kosher salt is unique for cooking)
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, washed, excess water removed; separate into 2 bunches and mince one bunch
1. Heat oil in a large, deep pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.
2. Add onion, cooking until translucent (about 5 to 6 minutes)
3. Add garlic, stir but do not allow mixture to brown (lower heat as necessary)
4. Stir in crushed seed and spice mixture, adding cinnamon sticks uncrushed
5. Add red bell pepper, stir and cook about another 3 minutes
6. Stir in tomatoes, rice and chicken broth; place lid over pot and bring mixture to a boil.
7. Leaving lid on lower heat to a bare simmer, cooking rice until all moisture is absorbed (about 20-25 minutes). When rice is thoroughly cooked remove from heat.
8. Stir in minced cilantro; place rice onto a platter, add chicken to platter and garnish with remaining cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately; makes 4 to 6 serving
King Fried Chicken and Gyros is located at 6754 Martin Luther King Jr. Way South. Phone number is (206)725-2511 and open 7 days from 6:00am until 10:00pm.
Georgia Lord Watanabe may be contacte by firing off a letter to editor@sdistrictjournal.com.[[In-content Ad]]
