Fall brings the harvest, and Pacific Northwest growers are now busy bringing in the crop of American-grown hazelnuts, a specialty nut cultivated almost exclusively in Oregon and Washington. Under appreciated in the United State, the hazelnut, a long-time European favorite, is also called a filbert and in England a cob or cobnut.
The hazelnut is a member of the birch family and was gathered in China 5,000 years ago and enjoyed by the Romans as well. This sweet and tasty nut is native to the northern hemisphere, and while many varieties exist only a few major types comprise the bulk of the world's crop.
Home grown
Washington grower Brian Holmquist knows a thing or two about growing hazelnuts. Referred to Holmquist by Karen Kinney of the Columbia City Farmer's Market, I met Brian recently at his Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards stall at the Friday Pike Place Farmer's Market in downtown Seattle.
"Our family has been in the nut business for 78 years, but we've been farming the same land for over 100 years in Lynden, Washington," Brian noted. The original farmstead was founded by his great, great grandfather.
"This man always had a crop in the ground," Holmquist said. "He had fruit trees, nut trees, cows, grain, and strawberries. That way there was always a harvest. If one crop didn't succeed, something else did."
Succeeding family members saw Holmquist's great grandfather and eventually his grandfather take the reins.
"My grandpa, dad and uncle put in a working production line to sort the nuts," Holmquist recalled. "My uncle was a master welder; he built the original line from second-hand parts, adjusting the mechanism to accommodate hazelnut sorting."
Today, Holmquist only grows hazelnuts, and the business is a family affair including Holmquist's father, wife and brother. Seasonal workers are hired to bring in the fall crop.
A versatile nut
The three major varieties grown for consumer sales are du Chilly, Ennis and Barcelona. The Holmquists concentrate on du Chilly and Ennis hazelnuts for retail sales, for they are premium varieties and their retail customers are discerning. All of the Barcelonans grown on the farm are sold to wholesalers for more general uses in bulk and commercial sales.
Used by commercial nut purveyors as well as bakers and confectioners, the Barcelona is a fast grower and big producer. Correspondingly, the Barcelona variety is the most commonly grown and sold hazelnut worldwide and comprises most of the hazelnuts seen in the marketplace.
Hazelnuts are rich in unsaturated fats, calcium, phosphorus and potassium but very low in salt. Gentle toasting heightens their unique flavor, and when chopped, these small treasures go a long way in adding crunch and flavor to salads.
When cold-pressed these nuts yield a rich and exquisite oil used on salads and sautés as well.
"Europeans often use hazelnuts in sweets and confections, typically with chocolate and sugar," Holmquist observed, adding that his du Chilly variety tastes sweet on its own.
Cash crop
Holmquist mentioned that most of his crop has historically sold within Washington at farmers markets and to specialty shops and restaurants. He therefore concentrates on the more delicately flavored du Chilly and Ennis varieties.
"The small guy has to sell to those who can pay premium prices in order to stay in business," Holmquist asserted. "The large growers dictate nut prices and can afford to buy an entire crop."
Recently, however, exports have picked up so much that the Holmquists no longer sell their entire crop within the state. They now export about 80 percent of the harvest.
While strong in the Pacific Northwest, Turkey is the world's largest grower of hazelnuts by far, almost exclusively growing the less expensive, but stronger and somewhat bitter tasting, Barcelona variety. Spain, Germany and Italy follow Turkey with the United States settling in at a distant fifth. Reflecting the Holmquists' distribution, 80 percent of the domestic crop is exported to specialty retailers, while 80 percent of hazelnuts consumed in the United States are imported, mainly the Barcelonas from Turkey.
On your plate
While hazelnuts are most commonly seen in confections, they are also delightful in savory dishes and add a depth of flavor to meats, fish and vegetables. When lightly toasted and chopped, they make a great foil for pan-fried fish, add crunch and flavor to salads and make roasted and grilled vegetables sparkle. The following recipes showcase the breadth of uses for this small, round nut.
Trout and hazelnuts
2 pounds trout
1/4 cup melted butter
3 shallots, minced
1/2 cup finely chopped or ground hazelnuts
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup brandy
1 lemon cut into wedges
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Place fish into a baking pan; drizzle melted butter over fish, including the body cavities. Sprinkle shallots and nuts over outside of fish. Bake uncovered for about 20 minutes; baste often with butter. Remove fish to a dish or platter and pour lemon juice over all. Meanwhile heat the brandy and light it. Pour immediately over fish. Return fish to oven for about 3 minutes; remove and serve with lemon wedges. About 4 servings.
Adapted from "The Joys of Jewish Cooking," Stephen and Ethel Longstreet, Weathervane Books, New York, 1978.
Sherried rice with nuts and olives: a Persian dish
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups white rice, Arborio or jasmine is preferred; wash rice once or twice
2/3 cup dry sherry
3 1/2 cup low-salt chicken stock
Salt and pepper
Dash of cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons lightly toasted pine nuts
2 tablespoons lightly toasted, coarsely chopped hazelnuts
4 tablespoons chopped green olives (raisins or sultanas can be substituted)
Heat the oil in a pan; add onions, cooking until translucent. Add garlic, stirring to prevent burning. Add rice to pan and stir to coat with oil. Pour in 1/2 cup of the sherry and allow to bubble.
Season stock with salt, pepper and cayenne as desired; pour stock into rice mixture. Bring the rice to a gentle simmer; reduce heat to low and cook uncovered for about 20 minutes. Do not stir.
Remove rice from heat and sprinkle with remaining sherry, nuts and olive or raisins. Cover pan and allow to steam for ten minutes. Serve hot. Makes about 4-6 servings.
Adapted from "A Flavor of Andalusia," Pepita Aris, Chartwell Books, Edison, New Jersey, 1996.
Spiced hazelnuts and almonds
This is a popular snack in the Middle East.
3 tablespoons sunflower oil or vegetable oil (do not use olive oil)
1 1/2 cups whole, skinned hazelnuts (see note)
1 1/2 cups whole, blanched almonds
1 cup light brown sugar, well packed
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon crushed chili flakes
Salt to taste
Heat oil over medium heat in a deep saucepan until hot, but not smoking; add both nuts, stirring to coat. Add 3/4 cup of brown sugar, continue to stir. Continue to cook until nuts in sugar turn to a soft caramel.
Remove nut mixture to a heatproof bowl and sprinkle in cumin and chili flakes. Add salt to taste. Mix well. Spread still-warm nuts onto a large baking sheet to dry and sprinkle sugar over nuts to taste. Serve warm or store in an airtight container. Refrigerate after 1 week.
Note: removing skin from nuts
First, blanch almonds by bringing a pot of water to a boil. Remove from heat and add nuts. Allow to stand for about 3 minutes. Remove from water. Lightly pinch almonds between thumb and forefinger. The nut should easily slip from its skin.
For hazelnuts, heat oven to about 325 degrees F. Spread onto a baking sheet and allow to sit in the oven for 8-10 minutes. Watch carefully lest they burn. Remove when nuts become aromatic, wrap nuts in a bunch in a tea towel. Rub gently and the moist skin will easily flake off.
Adapted from "Lebanese Cooking" by Susan Ward, Chartwell Books, Secaucus, New Jersey, 1992.
The Seattle Farmer's Market Alliance can be reached at www. SeattleFarmersMarkets.org. Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards can be reached at www.holmquisthazelnuts.com or (800) 720-0895.
Beacon Hill writer Georgia Lord Watanabe may be contacted via editor@sdistrictjournal.com.[[In-content Ad]]
