There's this about Bremerton: Show up downtown at the First Friday Art Walk and check out the crowd. You'll find a mix of military people, active and retired (a few might be among the featured artists); young, Belltown Bohemian types; Puget Sound Naval Shipyard workers; Trident engineers; and outdoorsy folk who know the Olympic Mountains as well as their own back yards.
There is more looking at art here than posing. Bremerton injects some reality into that over-used word "eclectic."
Make no mistake: Bremerton, an hour's ferry ride across Puget Sound, is still waiting for its ship to come in. Too many downtown buildings are vacant. Big development plans are stalled at the blueprint stage. In some ways the salad days of this Navy town of 36,000 ended on VJ Day.
It's also true Bremerton can look ahead and see better days. One reason is real estate is relatively cheap. Schools are good. The natural setting is beautiful.
In the meantime, things are happening that make a trip across the water worthwhile. Most points of interest lie within walking distance of the ferry dock.
First, there is art. Amy Burnett Gallery, 402 Pacific Ave., is definitely worth a visit. Most days the well-known artist is on the premises. And she can tell you about the architecture of Downtown Bremerton, too, some of which came from the hand of Harlan Thomas, who designed the 1909 Sorrento Hotel in Seattle.
Across the street, Collective Visions Gallery, 331 Pacific Ave., displays good work that features a monthly artist. On third Fridays, the gallery features musical performances ranging from classical to more up-tempo acts like Pearl Django.
Starbucks and Anthony's restaurant have taken up residence by the ferry dock - evidence of progress of another kind. A first-rate Indian restaurant, the New Dehli, one block from the ferry at 221 Washington Ave., is noteworthy, especially their Saturday all-you-can-eat lunch buffet for $6.95. If you're weary of smiling service and mediocre food this may be your kind of place - here you get the opposite.
The historic Admiral Theatre, 515 Pacific Ave., regularly draws big-name entertainment.
The Naval Memorial Museum of the Pacific, 402 Pacific Ave., will reward the time you spend here.
You can walk uptown and cross the Manette Bridge to the Boat Shed Restaurant, moderately fine dining on the water, at 101 Shore Drive. Or walk a little more up the hill to Le Fermata, 2204 E. 11th St., roundly lauded for its Italian cuisine; it's open for dinners only.
To arrive in Bremerton is to step off the boat into another world - one good reason why we travel. Information: www.visitkitsap.com.
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